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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.